TC Electronic Flashback X4 Delay DIP Switch Settings & Simple Case Mod
Which DIP switch does what? Plus a simple case mod to make the switches more accessible.
The Flashback X4 is one of the delay effects pedals in the Flashback series by TC Electronic. It features their famous 2290 delay along with quite a few other delay modes and a looping function. In addition to the X4, the Flashbacks come in several different packages: Flashback Triple, Flashback, and Flashback Mini.
I own both the X4 and Mini. The pedals sound great, have lots of features, and are generally really easy to use. I also like the TonePrint stuff that TC Electronic is putting into all of their newer effects. The pedals can be customized for the exact sound you are looking for.
The Flashback X4 has the ability to change some settings on the pedal using internal DIP switches. By flipping these tiny switches hidden inside the pedal, users can adjust the bypass mode to either True Bypass or Buffered Bypass (terms which really only make sense to guitar junkies and audio engineers) and turn the “dry” signal on or off (which can be useful if the pedal is used in an effect send/return scenario).
While I love the X4, there are a few issues with these DIP switches.
- They are inside the case. Removing 7 screws takes time. It makes it hard to quickly A/B test the bypass modes or toggle the Kill Dry.
- The screws are Torx star drive, not standard or phillips. Good luck finding the right bit when you need it.
- The switches are not labeled. The manual tries to explain them, but it’s still confusing.
The DIP Switch Settings
Here is the explanation of the switches from the user manual.
It kind of seems like that section was written during the prototyping stage of the pedal development because it doesn’t make it any clearer which switch controls what or which direction they should be flipped to. Even after re-reading it several times I still couldn’t make sense of it. Using the power jack as a orienteering guide isn’t very helpful. I figured out what was what by just flipping the switches. Here’s what you need to know:
Here is a close up of the switches with labels for what each switch controls.
Be careful when flipping those little switches. They are delicate plastic components.
The DIP Switch Hole Mod
Instead of fiddling with the back panel every time I want to adjust these settings, I figured I would modify the pedal to make it easier.
I could’ve gone the route of desoldering the DIP switch and wiring in a pair of new switches mounted externally. But that seemed like a lot of work.
Instead I simply drilled a hole in the bottom panel.
How to drill the case
- Flip the pedal over with the jack panel away from you.
- Once you find the right T10 Torx star bit, you can take the 7 screws out. Be careful not to mess up these screws. They are made from a soft metal and are easily damaged if roughly driven or over tightened.
- Remove the bottom panel.
- Measure where the center of the DIP switches are located. Mine was 41mm (~1 5/8″) from the right edge and 72mm (~2 13/16″) up from the bottom edge. This location may vary from pedal to pedal, so make sure to take your own measurements on your specific pedal.
- Mark the location on the bottom panel. It should be somewhere in the area where the label is.
- Drilled the hole. I used a 5/32″ drill bit because that was the only size bit that I had on hand that was not too big and not too small. You might want to go for a little larger diameter drill bit to give yourself more room to toggle the switches. The metal is fairly soft, so you shouldn’t need any drilling oil.
- Clean away the metal shavings. Make sure you didn’t get any into the pedal. Metal shavings could cause electrical shorts in the circuit.
- Test fit the bottom panel, adjust if necessary, and replace it.
The result should look something like this.
As you can see, the hole is nearly invisible with that label there. To adjust the switches, use a small screwdriver or paperclip. Again, be careful when toggling the delicate DIP switches!
I might print up some labels to put on the bottom panel so I can remember which switch is which.5 Comments >
Thanks a lot my friend. helpful article. just picked up a used x4 and have been baffled for days why I was missing the dry sound and then equally baffled trying to break into the case. I think the guy sold it as cheaply as he did cause he couldn’t get it to work:)
Makes long delays trails (which are actually pretty short) usable. Why not put this on the damn front???
Muito Obrigado por esta bela explicaÃ§Ã£o. Precisamos mais disso.
I didn’t think the manual was cryptic at all. The dip switches were properly labeled. The “dip switch further away from the power jack” was enough for me to locate the kill-dry switch. And there were labels of “ON” on the dipswitch to get the orientation right.
The problem I had was I didn’t know there was a screw on the middle of the panel surface. I had covered by velcro. I couldn’t get the damn plate off just removing 6 screws until I saw your picture of the back plate.
doesn’t kill-dry replace turning the mix knob to the right?